I found photos of the first spot I surfed in Costa Rica! This internet stuff is too much. It was just like the pics above in the fall of 1974, right after I graduated from high school. We drove across the United States from Southern California to Miami so we could save money on our plane fares.
Three guys from Florida, a few locals and my buddy Gary Barker and I were out on the biggest day. Longest waves I have ever surfed. It looks like the spot changed a little since I was at Boca Baranca. Someone called it Danyana when we were hanging out. When I surfed there, the waves were breaking close to the rocks. You did not want to fall but I think we had leashes even then. As long as your board is ridable, what's a little wear and tear on the body. Never got pitched on the rocks though. There was the third point which no one surfed except a crazy guy from New Jersey and he broke his board on his second wave. The second point was just like the wave on the third photo down. Then the wave slowed down into the first point where it got very lined up. I did so many off the lips, I got bored. One evening it was very hollow at the first point. I heard there were sharks out that night. Kind of put a damper on killer tubes. No one around to see my very deep bowls except one local. He didn't even hoot. Oh well. Maybe I was the beginning of crowded conditions and he saw the handwriting on the wall.
All kinds of different waves in this one area. The paddle across the river was kind of wierd. Lots of crap floating in the river. Good waves with every go out.
0 comments:
Post a Comment