Here is another picture I took using my Pentax SLR camera which I basically traded for a shotgun while living in Alaska. It came in handy in California. This was shot in Pacific Grove in the early eightys. It reminded me of surfing with my Brothers. Just a couple of guys just finished with an awesome surf session. It's much like the adrenaline high you get from a hard workout only ten times more intense because surfing is so much fun.

This is a picture of me at a secret spot near Puerto Escondito, in Oxaca, Mexico. One of the cleanest breaks I surfed in the eighties. The guy who drove us to the break had his van broken into and some tools stolen. Bummer for him but at least we scored some good tubes.

The wave appears mellow but broke very hard, much like the main break at Puerto Escondito. That was a very gnarly wave. The mags show it every now and then and it is always big, perfect, and scary. This trip was while I lived in Alaska. I got in shape by swimming a mile a day for at least a month. But one can never be in total surfing shape unless surfing consistently for a couple of weeks. When I got to Escondito, the surf was at least double overhead. I went out but did not ride too many waves. As the swell dropped, I was able to ride more waves. Too much fun. This was about the forth day of surfing. The best picture to date anyone has ever taken of me. Thank you to the photographer.

Another picture of me on a perfect backside wave at the secret spot. Green, fun, and the reason a surfer travels.

As soon as I graduated from high school, I made a trip to Costa Rica. We did not get any photos of that trip. Our camera malfunctioned and we were too spaced out to get even a throw away (maybe they didn't have throwaways in 1974). Costa Rica was a surfer's paradise in the seventies. It still looks good in the mags but I would have to go somewhere else where the crowds are minimal. I will tell you about my trip to Costa Rica next time.

Thanks for viewing my blog. I have never been much of one for talking about myself but I had to get it down in writing before I can't remember anymore. This is very cool stuff for me.