Early Days, The Seventies

Hello everyone:

I am now ready to start my blog. I got a new laptop for Christmas from my family and scanned some of my pictures, so here I go.

This is one of the first pictures taken of me when I was about 16 years old. I am now 53 so the photo was taken at least 35 years ago. My brother John's girlfriend captured this close-up by standing close to the breaking wave and using a telephoto lens. Moe was a great photographer and great friend. The photo has seen some abuse over the years but still shows the quality of the photo. I like the water around the right foot. I was surfing with some friends at a place called Solimar point near Ventura, CA, It was a small day but fun. The sun was warm and the water refreshing.

I took this photo in Hawaii with a Pentax SRL with no filters. I sold a shotgun and bought the camera. A worthwhile transaction it turned out to be. I loved the camera. Someday soon I will buy a new SLR for better quality photos instead of just real estate pics.

The break is Pipeline and I had surfed earlier that day at Backdoor, the right breaking wave just down the beach from Pipeline. The lefts were not breaking like this when I went out midday at this famous (and scary break). It was much bigger and I was surfing backside. I still regret not going out at the Pipe when this photo was taken. I was most likely already surfed out and my family was more important right then. This was what it was like surfing back then (no crowds). Only one guy out at the most famous break in the world..